We have struck again, for the third time this year, this time just before Christmas: a river cruise with MS A-Silver, route Christmas markets on the Danube, two-bed cabin outside on the Hayden deck with window directly above the waterline. In other words, a classic river cruise, albeit at an unusual time.
The offer was super-affordable, also because the rail journey to Passau was free from the travel agency and there was an on-board credit on top. We wanted to see the big cities on the Danube anyway and we didn’t have to buy a Christmas tree. And so we set off a week before Christmas Eve.
First to Passau
As we were due to embark in the early afternoon, we arrived the day before, as Passau is not less than seven hours away from us. The hotel we had booked, the “Wilder Mann”, is a historic building in the middle of the old town and houses a glass museum. We moved into a small room with a nice bed.
After settling in, we made our way back to the Christmas market at St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Passau. We walked around first, as we wanted to have dinner and hadn’t eaten anything sensible on the train journey. Not far from the market square we found the right place, a restaurant with regional cuisine. There’s nothing more to say about the dishes. Well-fed, we returned via the Christmas market. We had eggnog and lard cookies for dessert. It was getting cold and foggy, time to go to bed.
Passau before embarkation
We still had half a day until embarkation. And we were lucky, the flood waters had receded and so we were able to start our sightseeing tour in bright, dry weather. First to the cathedral, a mighty three-aisled basilica with three striking baroque towers, which is currently being renovated. It also has the largest church organ in the world with 17,000 pipes. Then it was on to the Dreiflüsse-Eck. Passau’s special location has shaped the city over the centuries: The gray-green, rarely blue Danube from the west, the green Inn from the south and the black-brown Ilz from the north meet here.
The way back led us along the Inn to our hotel. The late Gothic town hall directly on the Danube was built in the 14th century and, with its 38 m high tower, symbolizes that the citizens of the town could take on the prince-bishop. The flood marks can be seen on the wall of the tower. Melting snow and heavy rainfall often flooded the old town several meters high at all times.
The A-Silver
The A(madeus)-Silver is a 135 m long and 10 m wide river ship of the Phoenix shipping company, which is powered by two 2,000 hp diesel engines. The outside cabins are spread over 3 decks and offer space for 160 passengers. Passau has two landing stages, one in front of the old town and one in Passau-Lindau. We took a cab to the latter. The ships are moored in pairs. To get to the A-Silver, we had to climb over another cruise ship. The suitcase was carried after us. We waited on the sun deck until we got the cabin key. After the safety briefing, the ship set sail. We stood at the very front on the veranda and looked out over the Danube.
Capital city Vienna
Nautical note: Between Passau and Vienna, the MS A-Silver has covered 300 river kilometers and passed through 9 locks.
How do you get to the city center (to the Christmas markets)? Take the Reichsbrücke extension to the Vorgartenstraße subway station. Take the U1 in the direction of Oberlaa to the Schwedenstraße, Stephansplatz or Karlsplatz stop. There you will find the Christmas markets. Take the U 1 back in the direction of Leopoldau.
We went to Stephansplatz, where the Christmas market is set up around the cathedral. A very nice one with strange food. And we were in St. Stephen’s Cathedral, the cathedral was open and there was mass going on, which was lost in the vastness of the space.
We continued down Kärntner Straße to Karlsplatz, where there was another Christmas market. We really liked the decorated facades of the main shopping street.
We found the prices at the Christmas markets to be exorbitantly high, so after returning to the ship we first had a strong mulled wine.
From Esztergom to Budapest
Once again, the MS A-Silver has 211 kilometers of river and two locks behind it. From Esztergom it is still 79 km to Budapest. We covered this distance by bus, as we had booked the “Danube Bend” excursion. At 8.45 a.m. we drove through the foggy and cold landscape to the largest church in Hungary, the Basilica of Esztergom (St. Adalbert’s Cathedral). It is situated high above the Danube and it was so foggy that you could barely see the portal, let alone the 100-meter-high dome. The Hungarian guide explained every single altar to us and we were glad to get out of the icy walls.
From there, the bus drove along the Danube, which forms the border with Slovakia here, to the Danube Bend. As the fog had not yet lifted, nothing of the beautiful landscape was visible, even the castle on the hill was covered in mist. So why stop for a photo?
We continued along the Danube. To make sure we didn’t get bored, we listened to the history of Hungary and I learned something new. Halfway to Budapest, we visited Sezentendre, a pretty village with lots of stalls selling dried peppers, among other things. We were in such a shopping frenzy that we almost missed the bus. At lunchtime we finally reached our ship in Budapest, near the Liberty Bridge. Lunch was waiting for us and after a short break we were ready to continue.
Budapest, panoramic cruise with Christmas market
So back on the bus for the panoramic cruise, free of charge thanks to the on-board credit. Budapest, we learned, is the capital of Hungary with 1.8 million inhabitants and was created in 1872 by merging the independent cities of Buda and Pest. Where the mountains are, there is Buda, west of the Danube, and where it is flat, there is Pest, east of the river. The most famous buildings are the Fishermen’s Bastion (Buda) and the Hungarian Parliament (Pest). Everything else can be found in the guidebook. We were let out at the Great Market Hall and sent through the Christmas-decorated hall to try some salami specialties. The last stop of the excursion was the Christmas market, a very beautiful and large market. A choir sang and there was a 20-minute laser show. At 7.15 p.m. it was back on board, cast off and enjoy the sea of lights and the departure on the sun deck.
Bratislava (Pressburg), Slovakia
The MS A-Silver covered 218 kilometers of river between Budapest and Bratislava. Now we followed the personal recommendation of the cruise director: Bratislava Castle, from where you have a fantastic view, is located not far above our landing stage. The city center is only 400 to 500 meters away from our pier, from where all the important sights are within easy walking distance.
We climbed up to the castle, not a trace of comfort. But the view is fantastic. Our ship is moored under the bridge. The equestrian monument depicts Prince Svatopluk the Great. One who brought the principality forward.
In the increasingly heavy rain, we walked from the castle down to St. Martin’s Cathedral. All Habsburg kings were crowned here, which is why there is a copy of St. Stephen’s crown on the 85-metre-high tower. There is much more to see in Bratislava, but it’s no fun in the rain. But we can read about everything we missed in the shore excursion information.
We strolled through two Christmas markets, drank punch and admired the Christmas trees. We were amazed at the wide range of meat products on offer. Vegetarians and vegans have no chance at all here.
Everyone had to be on board by 3.30 pm. Cast off! The MS A-Silver sets course for Linz/Austria. Coffee and cake in the Panorama Lounge.
At 18:30 farewell cocktail with the captain, hotel manager and cruise director.
At 6:45 pm gala farewell dinner in the restaurant, dress recommendation for
the evening: casual-elegant.
The subsequent crew show will be omitted.
To Linz on the Danube
From Bratislava to Linz, the MS A-Silver covers 269 river kilometers and passes through 7 locks. It is another 90 river kilometers and 2 locks to Passau.
The ship sails through a beautiful landscape that must look even more magnificent with greenery. Our curiosity is aroused at the sight of the large commemorative plaque at the lock. “The Nibelungen Train”, what’s it all about? We browse the internet and find out: Before the Danube flows through the Wachau, it crosses the Nibelungengau, a region with exciting stories to tell. The name of the wide valley between Ybbs and Melk has its origins in the Song of the Nibelungs: Rüdiger von Bechelaren (today’s Pöchlarn) is said to have had his ancestral seat here as a feudal lord of the Hun King Attila. The plot of the Song of the Nibelungs is partly set on the Danube and also in the Nibelungengau.
At 11:00 a.m., we have to turn our attention to the disembarkation information from the cruise management. Among other things, when the suitcases are to be disembarked with which colored trailers and how the transfer will take place.
Evening in Linz on the Danube
Before we disembarked, we read the information about the shore excursion. There is a lot to see, but for the time being we only made it as far as the Trinity Column with its adjoining Christmas market, it was raining too hard. The small sausages with sauerkraut and bread rolls were very tasty. Thus fortified, we continued across the main square to the left into the festively illuminated promenade. The Maltese Church (Church of Saint John the Baptist), which was accessible, was also beautiful. Unfortunately, this doesn’t come across so well on the copied brochure. Everyone had to be back on board by 9:30 pm, those who wanted to have dinner by 7:30 pm, but don’t worry, there’s a midnight snack at 10:30 pm. Before that, however, the on-board bill has to be paid, the reception accepts all cards and cash.
Back in Passau
The ship’s closing words: We are delighted if you enjoyed your time on board and recovered well. Often you have recovered so well that you hardly think about everyday things. We therefore ask you to make sure that all personal belongings are packed away and cupboards, drawers etc. are emptied.
We took this to heart and waited for the ship to dock. After what felt like two hours, it did, because it had to be maneuvered in a time-consuming process. We almost missed the train. But we were lucky, other passengers took us to the main station by cab.
Back home again
After a nine-hour drive, our cat welcomed us home. That was three hours longer than planned, which really dampened our vacation mood. Floods and storms had hit Deutsche Bahn so hard that the ICE train only went as far as Frankfurt main station, with a detour via Ingolstadt due to a fallen tree, people jammed on the regional train to Koblenz and finally the train home had to stop several times longer due to objects on the tracks. What an easy outward journey that was!
How did we like it?
This was our third river cruise, otherwise we have been on the sea many times. This cruise was a good way to spend the week before Christmas in a different way. We saw lots of beautiful Christmas markets and also cities that we hadn’t seen before. Budapest and Passau with the Wachau will certainly be on the itinerary again, at a different time of year. We now know for sure that the entertainment program on river ships is very modest compared to what the American shipping companies in particular offer. But why not bring a gypsy band on board? Thanks to the lovely tour guide, we got to see a lot of Hungary. And Budapest really is a city worth seeing. Conclusion: You can book with Phoenix, they are rock solid, just like the audience. And the special offer was unbeatable: free rail travel, reduced price, cabin upgrade and an on-board credit that covered the excursions.
The highs and lows of cruising, sometimes described in literary terms 